Ian Booth: January 2018

11.1.18

Gagarin St.

когда жена спросила тебе три раза купить сметану, а ты забыл купить сметану.

As Almaty's historical Baikanor movie theater was being demolished in the center of the Orbita district many people were wondering what would take its place. "Probably McDonalds," remarked my Russian teacher, who lives in an adjacent apartment building. Finally, opening its doors last week next door to the Mosque and market, it became Kazakhstan's eighth location in its two year history. Almaty's first McDonalds acquired the land of Kazakstan's first movie theater, Alatau Kinotheater. Rumors of Mcdonald's arrival had been swirling around online for a couple years while, simultaneously, construction walls surrounded the Alatau theater. Many people joked that the rumored McDonalds would knock down the theatre for themselves. It seemed a bit of a shock for everyone when it actually happened.

"Ladies and gentlemen, I'm not in the hamburger business. My business is real estate."
-Ray Kroc, founder of McDonalds, speaking to a MBA class in 1974.

Oily herring fish. Best consumed as vodka chaser.

7.1.18

Baku, Azerbaijan - Land of fire and carpets

Azerbaijan's ancient history had marched through Alexander’s Macedon, the Roman Empire, the Silk Road era, Genghis Khan’s Mongols, the Ottoman empire, Iranian’s Sefevi dynasty, Peter the Great’s Imperial Russia, and the Soviet Union before securing its independence in 1991.

Dude chillaxin in Fire Temple.
The name 'Azerbaijan' roughly translates to 'the land of fire.' It is believed to reference its natural gas seeping through its soil and the history of its ancient "ever burning" fire temples.

Baku shopping mall

This small fire was accidentally lit in the 1950's by a local shepherd and has never gone out due to natural gas under the soil releasing methane gas through the sandstone rock.
Endless burning fires is not uncommon for the area. Just across the Caspian sea in the middle of Turkmenistan desert there has been a huge burning crater gas fire burning for 45 years.

Baku, the capital city, sits on the west side of the Caspian sea. The oil rich sea is shared (moving clockwise)
by Russia, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Iran. Many oil operations take place on giant "rig cities" miles away from the coast.

Carpet in the Carpet Museum.
Much of the nations history and importances have been inscribed into the carpets.

Model of Fire Temple.
Built in the 17th century, this temple was used as a place of worship by Hindus, Sikhs and Zoroastrians.
The flames are said to had burned continuously until 1969.

When the Soviet Union formed in 1918, Russia had been experiencing major oil catastrophes. Two thirds of the Soviet Unions qualified oil specialists immediately went to work in Azerbaijan and by the year 1940 they had broken mining records that would not beaten until 2005. Those oil producing years put the small city of Baku on war strategy maps during WW2. First in the beginning of the war, France and Britain planned airstrikes on the city due to the Soviet Union supplying oil to Germany's war industry. After Germanys split with the Soviet Union, Hitler set his eyes on the oil rich Caucasus region and even set a date for the attack, September 25, 1942. Anticipating the win, Hitler's Generals presented a cake of the Caucasus Region and cut out the piece of Baku just for him. But before they made it to the region, Germany was surrounded and defeated in Stalingrad and forced to retreat.

Rug commemorating Soviet Azerbaijani WW2 hero. Shaki Museum, West Azerbaijan.

Cat in front of children's shop.

During the nations most recent conflict in the late 1980's with its northern neighbor Armenia, Mustafayev Chingiz Fuad made eighteen documentaries on the fighting and atrocities taking place. While filming a fire fight against the two territories he was killed by shrapnel from a shell that exploded beside him.
Mustafayev is also famous for producing Azerbaijans first hip hop track back in 1983.

Rastam killing the white devil.
The land of Azerbaijan was once dominated by the ancient Persian religion of Zoroastrianism, whose influences can be seen in artifacts and folk lore like this. Accordingly, scholars believe the "white dev" portrays foreign peoples trying to get their hands on its natural resources.

Heydar Aliyev conference and gallery centrer.
Architecture by Zaha Hadid.

man walking up stairs to mosque. Around 95% of citizens are Muslim.

Like all post Soviet countries, New Years Eve is the most widely celebrated winter holiday. Combining similar Christmas traditions: Grandfather Frost and Granddaughter Frost and a decorated tree, it is usually celebrated with a close family and friends dinner with vodka and champagne.